For the last year and a half, the Rio Consulate has been
preparing for the influx of Americans for the Olympics and all the possible
imaginable and unimaginable dramas that can come with that. Then the Games
finally came and with them that enjoyable beast – the “official visit.” Now,
every Foreign Service officer, at one point or another in their illustrious
career, has had to deal with or, as we say, “work” an official visit of some
type. It could be a CODEL (a Congressional Delegation), or a STAFFDEL (Staff Delegation),
S visit (Secretary of State, our boss), a VPOTUS (the Vice President of the United States ),
POTUS (I will let you figure this one out), or even a FLOTUS visit (any
guesses? No? Ok – First Lady of the US )(yeah, we have awesome acronyms
in the State Department). These visits are meant to advance the interests of
the United States
in that country and our job at the numerous Embassies and Consulates around the
world during said visit is to facilitate them in any way possible so that the
visitors can concentrate on their mission.
So far, I have been lucky to work two S visits – of
Secretary Clinton in Bangladesh
and of Secretary Kerry in Rio . The first one
lasted 23 very busy hours on a stifling Saturday. The second – 2 days, right
before the opening of the Olympic Games in Rio .
With about a ton of other heads of states and various important people from all
over the world, in the midst of traffic and gazillion tourists, I am proud to
say that Consulate Rio made sure that the S schedule went off without a hitch. Other
than that, my work during the Olympics, thanks to all the great prep we had
done, was rather unexciting apart from a visit to prison on my very last day of
work to calm down an arrested American. It was a classy end to a fabulous tour.
We did manage to see some Olympic events in the meantime.
Most sports were easy to get tickets for and we did enjoy some particularly
riveting ping pong, badminton, and golf qualifiers. I went to see the rhythmic
gymnastics finals (Bulgaria
took bronze!) and even the basketball finals, where we saw the Dream Team destroy
Serbia .
A couple of days later, after an epic goodbye party at a friend’s gorgeous
penthouse overlooking the ocean, we packed our bags and went to the airport to
leave the stunning city of Rio de Janeiro and come back home. You’ll remember
that at the time, Son was in Bulgaria
with Grandma, and so it was just the Diplomat and I, plus a highly hostile Fat
Cat.
For those of you traveling with pets around the world – this
is yet another cautionary tale of how absurd travel can be with those beasts
(whom we love, arguably). We booked our flights with the amazing American
Airlines back to Washington ,
DC as we did not really have a
choice of carrier. The government has contracts with all three US airlines,
and wherever they have flights, we are obligated to fly with one of them if we
are on official travel. So, AA it was. Once the tickets were booked, I called
the airline to make sure we can take the cantankerous animal with us as checked
luggage (as opposed to cargo, which is much more expensive, even though he’d
travel in exactly the same place in the plane’s belly). I was told that I can
and just to bring him in with us as we check in. So, armed with 4 suitcases,
one carry-on, a large golf bag and a big cat carrier, the Diplomat and I
presented ourselves brightly at the AA check-in counter at the Rio
International Airport with only one thought in mind – how to upgrade ourselves
to business class with miles! I handed the airline clerk our passports, smiled more
obsequiously and broadly than a Cheshire cat and watched him as he began
clacking on the keyboard completely expressionless for about 5 minutes. Then he
said – “You cannot go on these flights.” Perplexed, and with an even bigger
(admittedly, fairly fake) smile I asked him what he meant. Placidly and somewhat
lethargically ven, he informed me that the connecting flight from Miami to DC was too small
and would not accept cats.
People, what kind of a plane is too small for a bloody cat –
are we going on a hang-glider, for Pete’s sake?? Perplexed, I asked him what
exactly we were supposed to do and for the next 1 hour and 4 minutes the clerk
and three of his head-scratching colleagues tried every single flight combo
from Rio connecting to DC in order to re-book
us. Additional complication was the summer heat rule, which says that if the
average temperature on the tarmac on the day of arrival is above a certain
temperature (say, 90F), a pet cannot land there. Since our original flight
would land at 5 am, that was not going to be an issue. It was, however, a
problem for the flights the rest of the day – the ones that would actually
accept a portly cat aboard. Thusly, a feline Catch-22. Eventually, defeated and
deflated and freezing (don’t get me started on Brazil ’s obsession with the A/C),
we were told that we were successfully rebooked on a NY flight that same night,
from where we would fly to DC, Fat Cat in tow. Relieved, we immediately asked our
burning upgrade question and the bleary-eyed clerk sent us to the Business
Class lounge to sort it out, he was so sick of us. I like to think everything
in life happens for a reason – once we got there, we learned that the Miami flight’s business
class had been fully booked so if we had gone on it, we wouldn’t have been able
to upgrade, but the NY was not – it had exactly two last seats left. Boom –
champagne and warm nuts at take-off, score! Thank you, Fat Cat!
And we are back in the U.S.A! As every Foreign Service
officer will tell you, the reality of living back home can be jarring and
rather expensive. For starters, even though many of us have our previous
furniture stored in some mysterious storage place in Maryland, after that gets
delivered, one inevitably needs more crap to settle as we have acquired a lot
more “ethnic” crap along our tours. And so begin the trips to IKEA and Home
Depot (I have to say their legendary bad customer service has actually
worsened, which is a feat in and of itself) and Target and Walmart, and then
the countless hours putting all your new flimsy stuff together. Just when you
think you have it all under control, the HHE arrives. For the uninitiated –
when we move from post to post, our precious possessions get shipped to us in
two distinct batches. One is called UAB, or the unaccompanied air baggage. That
one is small, about 300-500 lbs (size depends on how many family members
travel), travels on a plane and since it arrives fairly fast, folks generally
pack their most important things there. The other one is called HHE, or
household effects (I think?!) and that one goes on a ship. A real, big cargo
ship, which moves at, you know, ship pace. Depending on where you are going, it
might take up to 3 months to see your stuff, and usually when it finally makes
it, you have almost forgotten what is in it. So, it is like a really bad
Christmas where you get up to 7,200 lbs of your own old stuff, some of it moldy
(depending on how long and where it has traveled), some you have hoped you had
tossed away years ago and some you found delightedly (like a pair of brand new
leather booties you had just bought before you moved to Rio, and then once you
unpacked there, you never found them and thought they were lost). But it is all
there, and all at the same time, all thousands of pounds of old clothes, books,
forks and knives, ancient candles, your kids’ artwork from 2 years ago, broken
Christmas toys, a large ornamental vase, which looked great in your living room
in Guangzhou but screams kitsch in your 1950s Virginia town home, workout bench
and two large bags of wine corks. We actually did not have that much stuff, and
“only” had 138 boxes (trust me, that is not much compared to many others!). The
issue was that all those 138 boxes got piled up in every nook and cranny of the
house.
Our new house in Arlington
has probably about a quarter of the closet space of our apartment in Rio , even if square-footage-wise it is much larger. That
has made unpacking a challenge and at the same time rendered some decisions
very easy – for example, to finally throw away a denim skirt I have not worn in
7 years but looks so damn cute, I was sure for all those 7 years that I would
find a good occasion to wear it. I have not yet, and so the skirt has left the
house. That said, I am not a hoarder and this lifestyle has been very conducive
to regular purging of household effects. I even threw away a few pairs of shoes
(collective gaps, I know, but they were fairly old and somewhat ruined by Rio ’s salty air). Overall, progress has been made and
almost all has been unpacked. Now all we need to do is register the car in the
august state of Virginia
and fight off the slugs in the yard, who keep eating the newly planted lettuce.
Not sure which one is more challenging. Stay tuned!
Big fan of your site. Right now the US probably has a real unemployment rate of 20%+. People with multiple degrees from quality undergraduate and graduate schools are struggling to feed themselves. In some cases they kill themselves out of desperation. People in their 70s can't afford to retire (literally). Private servers, emails and smartphones destroyed by a Presidential candidate and former Secretary of State to cover up graft on magnitudes the average citizen simply can't fathom. But this site keeps it real. Parties, parties, parties, golf, some work, more parties, more parties, more parties, etc. Yeah, it's good. And the taxpayer should keep funding this because...? How essential is this position in Brazil? In Bangladesh? Because a ton of evidence screams otherwise. What's next? A tour in Paris so we can read about side trips to Cannes or Lake Como? Why should someone that is struggling to eat in the US finance this one more day? In all honesty, why?
ReplyDeleteSo maybe do us a favor and stop eating?
DeleteWith all due respect, the U.S. Foreign Service does the necessary work, seen and unseen, to further U.S. interests on a plethora of levels everyday around the world. While I understand your perspective, the U.S. Foreign Service is not necessarily in competition with, nor in opposition or relevant to, your points of grievance. Have a good, no ... actually, have a GREAT day.
ReplyDelete